“I’m a brow expert and this is my foolproof secret to shaping your eyebrows yourself”

How to shape your eyebrows

by Lorna White |
Updated on

If you’ve ever had your eyebrows professionally shaped, you’ll know just how much of a difference your eyebrow shape can make to your face. It can feel like your whole expression and face has had a transformation, especially if you’ve added some depth of colour with a brow tint too!

While there’s nothing quite like having your brows done by a professional, we know that sometimes, it’s much easier to do these little beauty treatments at home where possible, not only saving you pennies but also saving you a trip out to the salon.

But as with any DIY beauty treatment, it’s important you get it right, particularly when it comes to your eyebrows as they’re a huge focal point of the face. That’s why we’ve got all the expert tips from Brow Expert Laura Kay. Laura specialises in applying permanent brows, so knows there’s nothing more important that getting the brow shape perfect for each unique face shape.

Finding the right eyebrow shape for your face

Eyebrow shape

"To find the perfect brow shape for you let’s look at the Golden Ratio, a mathematical formula which defines beauty. Its all down to a few specific calculations that beauty standards are bound by because the Golden Ratio is commonly considered the most attractive or visually appealing in facial anatomy.” Laura says.

The Golden Ratio is all about enhancing your features by redefining your brow shape and strategically tweaking certain visual aspects of your face.

Brows should begin directly above the middle of your nostrils, end where the corner of the nostril connects with the outer corner of the eye, and the highest point of the arch should connect the middle of the tip of the nose with the middle of the iris.”

Perfect brows are the average distance between either side which should be 3cm. This measurement is taken horizontally between the two eyebrows. The midpoint between the two brows can be marked by a dotted line running through the brows, and the distance from the inner eye to the pupil, when looking straight ahead, is 3cm.

When shaping your brows following the Golden Ratio, you also need to know where to put the highest point of the brow arch so here measure 4.5cm from the midpoint line to get this accurate.  The rule says that each eyebrow should be 5cm from end to end.

Cindy crawford eyebrows

Not all faces are not symmetrical so you should also use artistry and your own judgment to balance out.  It may be worth seeking a professional brow expert who can use their expertise to adjust or correct to give you the best eyebrows.

With the process it is important not to get carried away and focus should ultimately aim to balance your features, not overuse, and consider your individual facial proportions.

Specifically, in terms of eyebrows, I always say create a shape that suits your face and tailor your brows to you as much as possible.

Should my brows be identical?

You’ve probably heard the saying, ‘eyebrows are sisters, not twins’ and you should remember that when doing your brows. Looking at your own face everyday, it’s easy for us to notice slight imperfections, but rest assured, most of us aren’t blessed with perfectly symmetrical eyebrows.

How do I make sparse brows appear fuller?

Once you have corrected the shape of your brows, you can fill in any sparse areas with a good quality brow tool such as a pencil, powder, or pomade. We've listed some of our favourites here.

Best brow pencil

This super precise pencil is ideal for mimicking thin brush strokes. Coming in a wide range of different shades and with a spoolie on the end, it's quick and easy to use and gentle on the skin. The only downside is that it doesn't last as long as some other brow products, however, it's very affordable.

Best brow pomade

Anastasia Beverley Hills pomadeAnastasia Beverley Hills

If you prefer a pomade formula, this Anastasia Beverly Hills Pomade is great. Using a very small brush, you only need a little product to achieve full and natural brows. Although it's a higher price, it lasts a while making it great value.

Best brow kit

This complete kit is great for travelling. Including a brush, tweezers and powder and wax, it contains everything you need for perfect brows. Using the wax first, simply use the thin brush to fill in any gaps before using the powder to set your brows.

Laura says to use short, feathery strokes to mimic the appearance of natural hair and create a fuller look in those thinner areas or gaps.

As well as a pencil, you’ll want to use an eyebrow spoolie to brush your brow hair upwards to give your eyebrows shape and blend the product evenly through the brows.

For very sparse brows, you may want to consider eyebrow microblading. Similar to a tattoo, this is where eyebrows are semi-permanently tattooed onto to the skin to give the effect of full brows.

What if my brows are overgrown?

eyebrow shaping

If your brows are overgrown and you don’t really know where to start, consider getting them professionally shaped or trimmed to achieve a more polished look.

It’s also a good idea to use a brow gel or wax to tame any unruly hairs and keep them in place all day long. You may also want to consider brow lamination to keep them in place for longer.

Best brow gel

This clear gel is designed to keep your brow hairs in place all day long. It's very simple and quick to apply and thanks to its clear consistency, you really can't go wrong and it's suitable for all hair shades. We also love that it's a flake free formula. It's also worth noting that Benefit also do brow gels in different colours too if you want to add a little more colour to your brows.

Although your brows may be very full in most areas, it can make the more sparse areas even more noticeable. That’s why you might want to fill in any sparse areas or gaps with an eyebrow pencil to maintain a more balanced appearance.

Remember, it's always a good idea to consult with a professional brow artist if you're unsure about the best approach for your specific eyebrow shape and type, follow us @laurakaylondon on Instagram for more top tips!

About the expert

Laura Kay is an experienced and knowledgeable leading permanent makeup specialist, with over 20 year experience in the cosmetic industry. Her expertise in colour and design, enables her to achieve outstanding results with every client. In 2015, Laura opened her academy training programme, teaching her world class skills to the next generation. The academy now see’s over 50 students certify with a Level 4 qualification every year.

You can shop Laura's complete brow tool here. With three essential products in one compact tool, it includes a flat tipped pencil, soft powder brush and brow gloss for holding the brows in place.

Lorna White is a Senior Digital Writer at Yours.co.uk. She was previously a writer at Yours Magazine writing features and news stories before joining the digital team. Lorna loves the great British countryside and likes to spend her spare time out and about in her home of Nottinghamshire walking her Border Collies, Pippin and Maggie.

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